Zitat
Es mögen die allermeisten sein, du kannst das jedoch auf keinen Fall verallgemeinern. Und du hast vorhin auch versäumt zu schreiben, dass ggf. der Abstand vergrößert werden muss.
Sorry, wenn ich so pingelig bin, aber wenn du solche Tipps gibst, bedenke bitte, dass sie 1:1 umgesetzt werden..... Und DAS geht dann in aller Regel nach hinten los, vor allem wenn kein Hintergrundwissen über Lernverhalten, Verknüpfung etc. vorhanden sein sollte.
LG
cazcarra
Da gebe ich dir Recht......ich haette es ausfuehrlicher schreiben sollen. Nur bis ich mir das alles auf deutsch rausgequetscht habe hock' ich Morgen frueh noch hier....
Das ist eine aeltere Anleitung fuer eine Kundin getippselt...also einfach den Namen "Casey" ignorieren 
Behavior Modification Program
Any training Casey has received up until this point has been operant learning. To simplify: you have rewarded correct responses sit = sit = reward. Failure to sit = no reward. So your communication with your dog has been a system of "yes and no". You were rewarding or not rewarding "overt" or observable behavior, i.e. those things you can see.
Now the work will take on "Classical" approach; we are not rewarding or punishing specific responses. We are hoping to shape/change the dog's feelings or "Covert" behavior - that which we cannot observe directly. We are trying to change the dog's emotional state. We are going to begin to pair the appearance of novel or new stimuli (strangers) with something the dog really enjoys like food. An especially good food item.
Identify an extremely favored food item. It might be steak, chicken, liver, cheese and so on ...it should not be a regular food item, and it should be highly desired by Casey. During the treatment program the only time the dog will receive this highly coveted treat will be in the presence of strangers. Strangers = liver. "I love liver!" We hope to convince the dog "I love strangers, they = liver!!"
Now determine what distance, or triggers, agitate her to begin the fearful response. A dog may be fine with strangers outside the home but not want them in the home; she may be fearful of all men, all women, all children under 5. Fearful of sudden movements, strangers that appear out of nowhere. "Strangers are fine until they are within 5 feet of me and then I get nervous," and so on. Do a lot of observing and note taking; become an expert on what triggers, or combination of triggers set off your dog.
In general these things are very unsettling to the reactive dog:
Men are generally more threatening than woman. Their movements are more direct, their eye contact is more direct, they are louder than women. They are bigger than women. Many have facial hair and so on...
Young children are provoking to many dogs. They have high pitched, squeaky voices; they move in very fast, quirky ways. They throw things, and ride on scary things...often attached to skateboards, roller blades, carry noisy toys and so on .
Direct, prolonged eye contact is unsettling.
Bending over the dog or reaching over the dog's neck, head and shoulder region is unsettling and provoking.
Moving in a straight line at the dog, especially at a "very fast" or "very slow" abnormal pace.
Falling or moving arms, or legs. Often any change or movement can throw the dog off.
Once you have determined your dog's triggers, now you will work within your dog's safety zone...your goal is to move so slowly in these exercises that you never see a fearful/aggressive display.
You want your dog aware of the stranger but not yet intensely concerned. As soon as your dog alerts to the stranger, you begin feeding him the luscious treats one after the other as quickly as he can eat them. Then while the dog is still doing well and before he has a chance to aggress you either...
1. Have the stranger go away.
2. You and the dog leave the area the stranger is in.
It is important that no matter how your dog behaves you continue to feed! Remember we are not rewarding "correct" or "incorrect" behavior; we are working on changing the dog's emotional state. If your dog will not eat, then you are "too close" or are working too quickly to make progress...don't do that! If the dog is not relaxed enough to eat, you are going too fast.
For several weeks you will work this way within your dog's comfort zone. Let's say for the sake of the example that your dog is comfortable as long as he is 6 feet or more away from a stranger, your sessions would go as follows. 6 feet from stranger, 7 ft. from stranger, 8 ft. from stranger, 5 feet from stranger. As long as you are seeing improvements and not seeing the display, you are moving along at just the right pace. The dog determines the pace of these exercises.
Now you gradually reduce the distance...perhaps on average now you are working within 5 feet of strangers. Again successful, then work towards four and so on.
Once the dog is doing well near strangers then one will begin having the strangers make some contact with the dog...NOT touch the dog but some contact.
It might look like...
Stranger approaches within 7 feet and tosses one piece of steak towards the dog and leaves.
Stranger gradually gets closer and closer.
Stranger crouches down. Or sits tossing some food on the floor near them. The stranger is not looking at nor talking to the dog.
If you are moving at a nice comfortable pace for the dog, he will begin to look at minimum not concerned, and possibly actively looking forward to this person appearing. Now you may be ready to move on to...
Stranger sits (again not looking at or talking to the dog). Allow the dog to approach if he wants to, and reward the dog.
At no time should the stranger reach for the dog, eventually the stranger can hold his/her hand below the neck level of the dog and see if the dog wants to make contact.
Move to where the dog will take a treat from the stranger's hand.
Then can the stranger talk quietly to the dog? Can the stranger make some quick eye contact with the dog? and so on.
Perhaps now the stranger can first feed (a large treat the dog is nibbling at) while gently petting the dog's chest or sides...avoid top of the head, or top of the shoulders region.
Realize that the dog "spooks" due to many things. For example a dog can be calmly taking treats from a seated stranger but should that stranger speak or stand up and the dog will react...the picture presented to the dog "looks different". Different might be dangerous; you begin again to desensitize the dog to this new "picture" or combination of factors.
So can the dog approach a stranger that is standing, bending over the dog, swinging an arm, holding a shopping bag?
Again, every time you add a new element of strangeness expect it to be harder for the dog. The dog may let Barry pet him but not if he is holding a bag of groceries and so on. So Barry goes back to tossing food when he is holding the bag, and you progress in the same gradual way with this New Barry".
Slow, steady and successful wins this game. It is very tempting when we have a bit of success in a session to see if we can "push" for just a little more. This is not advised, strive at all times to keep the dog successful. Only if the dog looks and seems very relaxed should you continue with the session. If at any time the dog gets nervous simply end the session.
